Eggs Over Easy Pattern & Tying Instructions
Fly Tying Recipe:
Eggs Over Easy
Show / Hide Eggs Over Easy Transcript Video Transcript:
This egg pattern is a variation on the Antron Egg which has been extremely productive for me over the last couple of years. Rather than Antron, this one’s made from egg yarn and although they look pretty good in the tying vise, it’s underwater where they really shine.
For a hook, a Dai-Riki #125 in either a 14 or a 16 is a good choice. Don’t forget to mash the barb before securing the hook in your tying vise.
For thread, I like 70 Denier Ultra thread in a color to match the egg yarn, here fluorescent yellow, but plain white thread will work just fine.
Once you’ve got your bobbin loaded, start your thread on the hook shank leaving some space behind the eye and take wraps rearward before snipping or breaking off the tag.
You’re going to need sharp scissors but I’d suggest not using your good fine tipped dry fly pair, as egg yarn will dull them quickly. Snip about a one inch piece of yarn in the color of your choosing. This one’s called peach. Separate the segment into roughly equal thirds. Then get hold of one of the thirds and snip an end of it off square. Keep the end squeezed between your thumb and index finger. Now give your bobbin a counter clockwise spin which will cause your tying thread to jump slightly rearward and catch the yarn. Secure the yarn to the hook shank with nice tight wraps. Egg yarn is slippery stuff and it’s definitely going to want to spin around the hook shank. End with your tying thread about an eye length behind the eye.
Pull the yarn over top of the hook shank and out over the hook eye. Work it down equally over both sides of the hook and, while holding it with your right hand, take 2 or 3 wraps of tying thread with your left. Take a few more wraps and then run your thread under the hook shank to the back end of the yarn.
Now get hold of a permanent marker, here I’m using standard red but a dark orange also works well. Color that little bulge of yarn. This will become the blood dot, the yolk or whatever else you want to call it. Just get it reasonably colored all the way around. Get hold of your tying thread and make open spiral wraps down the bend of the hook all the way to the vise jaws.
Split the yarn into roughly equal halves and then pull them down either side of the hook and hold them back with the thumb and index finger of your left hand.
Pick up your tying thread and start making tight wraps right down by the vise while continuing to pull the yarn rearward. After 4 or 5 wraps, pull that tie-down point forward on the hook shank to inflate the egg but don’t let go of the yarn with your left hand. Take a wrap or two of tying thread and then lift up the yarn and make 2 wraps just around the hook shank. The idea is to firmly secure the yarn so it won’t roll or move up and down the hook shank.
After a few more tight wraps, do a 4 or 5 turn whip finish and snip or cut your tying thread free. You can then reach in with your scissors and cut that tail off nice and close to the thread wraps. Add an ample drop of head cement to thoroughly coat the wraps and the egg is complete.
Ideally, you should have 360 degree coverage around the hook shank with the egg yarn but if there’s a little gap it really doesn’t matter. Try them in different sizes and colors especially in the winter months, you won’t be disappointed.
For a hook, a Dai-Riki #125 in either a 14 or a 16 is a good choice. Don’t forget to mash the barb before securing the hook in your tying vise.
For thread, I like 70 Denier Ultra thread in a color to match the egg yarn, here fluorescent yellow, but plain white thread will work just fine.
Once you’ve got your bobbin loaded, start your thread on the hook shank leaving some space behind the eye and take wraps rearward before snipping or breaking off the tag.
You’re going to need sharp scissors but I’d suggest not using your good fine tipped dry fly pair, as egg yarn will dull them quickly. Snip about a one inch piece of yarn in the color of your choosing. This one’s called peach. Separate the segment into roughly equal thirds. Then get hold of one of the thirds and snip an end of it off square. Keep the end squeezed between your thumb and index finger. Now give your bobbin a counter clockwise spin which will cause your tying thread to jump slightly rearward and catch the yarn. Secure the yarn to the hook shank with nice tight wraps. Egg yarn is slippery stuff and it’s definitely going to want to spin around the hook shank. End with your tying thread about an eye length behind the eye.
Pull the yarn over top of the hook shank and out over the hook eye. Work it down equally over both sides of the hook and, while holding it with your right hand, take 2 or 3 wraps of tying thread with your left. Take a few more wraps and then run your thread under the hook shank to the back end of the yarn.
Now get hold of a permanent marker, here I’m using standard red but a dark orange also works well. Color that little bulge of yarn. This will become the blood dot, the yolk or whatever else you want to call it. Just get it reasonably colored all the way around. Get hold of your tying thread and make open spiral wraps down the bend of the hook all the way to the vise jaws.
Split the yarn into roughly equal halves and then pull them down either side of the hook and hold them back with the thumb and index finger of your left hand.
Pick up your tying thread and start making tight wraps right down by the vise while continuing to pull the yarn rearward. After 4 or 5 wraps, pull that tie-down point forward on the hook shank to inflate the egg but don’t let go of the yarn with your left hand. Take a wrap or two of tying thread and then lift up the yarn and make 2 wraps just around the hook shank. The idea is to firmly secure the yarn so it won’t roll or move up and down the hook shank.
After a few more tight wraps, do a 4 or 5 turn whip finish and snip or cut your tying thread free. You can then reach in with your scissors and cut that tail off nice and close to the thread wraps. Add an ample drop of head cement to thoroughly coat the wraps and the egg is complete.
Ideally, you should have 360 degree coverage around the hook shank with the egg yarn but if there’s a little gap it really doesn’t matter. Try them in different sizes and colors especially in the winter months, you won’t be disappointed.
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